Conservation and communities

Sustainable eco-tourism brings fresh water to some of the most remote villages

The safari industry plays a hugely important role in supporting responsible tourism on the African continent. So, although a safari is first and foremost a hugely enjoyable and memorable experience for those taking part, it is also worth considering how supporting responsible organisations enables visitors to play a part in helping conservation and communities.

For Africa to remain the captivating safari destination that it is, it is important, however, that tourism is not allowed to exist unfettered by ethical and practical limitations. The key is sustainable eco-tourism, whereby there is minimal impact on the environment with local communities also receiving benefit. This in turn helps to preserve habitats and wildlife. 

Without visitors and the financial benefits to communities which tourism brings, many of the vast and varied habitats across the continent would soon succumb to the drive for human expansion. To generate income for the indigenous population, alternatives would have to be found including agriculture, which inevitably encroaches on the fringes of wild areas; and without ethical and practical controls, poaching would also have a serious impact on already-threatened wildlife populations.

Sabyinyo Silverback Lodge
Rwanda's first ever community lodge, helping
communities and thus protecting gorillas

Travelling with responsible organisations which support eco-tourism will go a long way to ensuring that a sustainable balance is found. These operators employ local staff and are involved with community projects - sponsoring education, supporting or building rural schools, initiating healthcare facilities and educating local communities in conservation. Many also become involved in much needed wildlife research. 

In some cases, local communities own land which has been set aside specifically for wildlife-based tourism and bed night fees go into community coffers. Within these areas, there may be camps and lodges which are actually owned by the communities themselves; the bed night levies from these help to sustain the population and support their way of life. In turn, this helps to encourage them to preserve wildlife habitats for future generations. 

Northern Kenya
Camel safaris provide employment to remote communties

Sadly, simply supporting communities is not, however, quite enough. Even with the financial benefits of sustainable tourism, poaching remains a tragic problem across Africa. Driven by financial incentives, the illegal poaching for rhino horn and elephant ivory is well publicised and is decimating populations. At Bushbuck, we support Tusk and encourage our guests to do the same.  Tusk not only works to protect wildlife, but also to helps alleviate poverty through sustainable development and education amongst the rural communities who live alongside the wildlife.  

Using a responsible agent, working with operators who deliver sustainable eco-tourism, will ensure that the impact of tourism is a decidedly positive one; benefitting not only communities but also wildlife, both now and into the future.

Riding safaris for the experienced

Riding with zebra, Masai Mara, Kenya

For those used to hunting or eventing, finding a suitable riding safari can present a challenge. After all, some operators in Africa cater for a range of abilities and, inevitably, in some cases this can mean that they have to take into account the fact that not all guests have the same degree of ‘stickability’. While they will do their best to cater for a variety of abilities, slower and safer rides can be frustrating for those who have hunted all their lives and relish galloping across varied terrain.

Thamalakane River Ride, Ride Botswana

David Foot of Ride Botswana, who runs a number of rides in both the Okavango Delta and the Kalahari Desert, is reassured when he sees ‘hunting’ on a guest’s form - he knows they will be able to cope with the pace of his more challenging rides. And while there is capacity to take special care of less experienced riders within a group, he is at pains to point out that if a ride is categorised as being for the experienced, that means being able to sit securely on a good horse at a flat out gallop across rough terrain. 

Tristan Voorspuy of Offbeat Safaris offers perhaps the most challenging and exciting riding for guests in a number of locations including the Masai Mara. His five or ten day rides are not for the faint-hearted but they do provide thrills and spills sufficient to satisfy the most experienced cross-country rider.

Offbeat Safaris, Kenya

The advantages of matching riding ability to operator, ride and terrain are obvious. Viewing game close up is not without its risks, but galloping alongside herds of wildebeest or among zebra is truly thrilling. As is seeing an elephant at close hand or galloping in a moonlit desert. But if an operator is confident about the abilities of a group, more risks can be taken and experience is often enhanced by the frisson of a little bit of danger.

Drinks stop, Makgadikgadi Salt Pans, Botswana

At Bushbuck Safaris we are always happy to discuss the exact abilities and ambitions of every guest, whether travelling in a group or as a single person, and we will advise on all aspects of a trip so that we can ensure the reality matches the dream. Prices are the same whether you book through Bushbuck Safaris or directly through an operator so there is nothing to lose and an awful lot to gain.

Why a combined riding safari delivers a better experience

The zebra migration on the Makgadikgadi Pans, Kalahari. Botswana

Warning: when planning a riding safari, using a specialist riding holiday agency may lead to disappointment. Of course, it sounds counter intuitive, but bear with me. Those who specialise in riding safaris may know a lot about individual riding operators across Botswana, Kenya, Namibia, South Africa and Tanzania, but that is where their expertise ends. Few of them know much about the wider questions associated with your holiday.

Boating safaris in the Okavango Delta with Jacques Conradie

Is this a good time of year for game viewing in this particular area? Should we stay in one place for a whole week? What will the non-riders do all day? What else is there on offer other than riding? Where else should we consider visiting to give us the best overall game viewing?

You only have to meet people who have spent five days riding around in one spot, at the wrong time of year, and without seeing anything more exciting than a stray baboon to know that sometimes focusing just on the riding element can be mistake. Of course it is important to know about the quality of horses and the facilities of the camp, but few people invest in a safari to simply fly in, ride and visit one place.

Consider this: wildlife areas with high populations of lion or other dangerous mammals are not generally suitable for riding. By definition, environments that are safe for horses may exclude some of the most interesting animals.

Best not seen from a horse: 

a lioness viewed from a vehicle, Selinda, Botswana

For most, a combined safari works better; visiting other areas which may be higher in predators and big game and enjoying game viewing from vehicles, boats or on foot, for a complete game viewing experience. The riding element of the trip should be central to the planning but it should not be its sole purpose. 

An experienced African agent, who also specialises in riding safaris, will know all the options and will be able to advise you on the best camps (and the best times of year) to meet your needs. Nor should their safaris cost you any more than booking a riding safari direct. But they will also give you inside knowledge about the other opportunities available within a reasonable distance which will enhance your trip, delivering a better all-round experience and lasting memories. 

When is a tent not a tent?

A tented room at Kings Pool, Botswana

Anyone who has ever wondered whether they would find a tented safari in Africa a bit primitive needs to reconsider their definition of the word ‘tent’. For many of us the word conjures up images of soggy canvas, constricted space, outdoor ablutions and charred food. But tented camps in Africa have taken the term ‘tent’ and elevated it to a whole new level. Think glamping and then double or treble it, adding a long list of creature comforts along the way. This is luxury at the highest end of the scale; and tents are veritable palaces. While some retain an element of canvas, at the top end of the scale, they come with thatched roofs and wooden floors, vast canopied beds and sumptuous armchairs, flushing loos and power showers, decks, day beds and plunge pools.

Bathroom with a view: Serra Cafema Camp, Namibia

Of course, you don’t go on safari simply to enjoy the indoor facilities. So it is important when selecting camps to visit to ensure that you will be visiting areas with great game viewing too. Many of the top camps have been long established in the best spots in the finest concessions, making game viewing from your own terrace a realistic prospect. What is more, from the dining and sitting areas of the camp, it is often possible to see animals crossing a river or grazing in the near distance. This is what makes a high end safari so special: privileged game viewing without any compromise to your creature comforts.

Pride of lions viewed close up from game vehicle at Selinda Reserve, Botswana

Proximity to big game delivers an inevitable thrill, but not at the expense of safety. Viewing from specialist safari vehicles gets you extremely close to animals, especially in areas where they have established trust that these large mobile objects will do them no harm. The expertise of local guides, working with a network of trackers, will ensure that you have the best chance of seeing whatever game is in your area, but they also have deep knowledge of the wildlife they are following and will ensure that no risks are taken.

Sundowners, Linyanti Reserve, Botswana

Game drives are usually early in the morning, followed by a delicious breakfast; and evening game drives are never undertaken without the traditional ‘sundowner’ overlooking a breath-taking view. There is no compromise with food and drink; they are an important aspect of the high end safari experience. Fresh food is flown in regularly and chefs are highly skilled, so after an excellent lunch you have nothing to do but snooze the afternoon away. And that is where the tent comes in.

Riding safaris - horses for courses

When it comes to riding safaris, the expression “horses for courses” is particularly apt. For a start, the horses being ridden by guests will be specialists in their discipline; whether it is the Kalahari salt pans, the deserts of Namibia, the open plains of Kenya or the waters of the Okavango Delta, they all require horses with specialist experience in that type of terrain.

Thamalakane River Ride, Botswana

Different operators favour different types of horse. In the Okavango, one of the stables favours the Boerperd, a stocky small horse breed with a calm temperament that originated in South Africa. Less prone to accidents or sensitive to cuts and scratches, they are resilient in an environment where puncture wounds are a habitual issue and vets are many miles away.

Others prefer cross-breeds with Shire, Appaloosa, Clydesdale traits bred into thoroughbred and native stock. The common factor with all these, however, is not their conformation or looks but their suitability for the job. Schooling is, of course, important because visiting riders require a responsive animal. But training a safari horse requires more: they must be habituated to game, willing to gallop if required or stand still and graze while their riders watch and photograph game.

First familiarisation ride, Makgadikgadi Pans, Kalahari, Botswana

Sourcing the right horses and then training them is one aspect of the process for riding safari operators, but the second is matching each horse with a suitable rider (or vice versa depending on your perspective).

Everyone has their own system for matching up the abilities of riders and horses on a safari. Ahead of the guests’ arrival, they will have completed forms indicating their size, weight and level of ability. But many operators will have to read between the lines because one person’s definition of experience may not be the same as another’s.

Riding for beginners at Ant's Nest, Waterberg, SA

In some cases, it will transpire that the individual has very little actual experience of riding across rough country. Those who ride regularly in a school will have a high level of technical ability but may lack the ‘stickability’ of those who hunt or enjoy endurance riding. In very rare cases, it may become apparent that someone has exaggerated their ability and a riding test will reveal that they simply cannot ride safely in open terrain.  Then there is a problem.  

Ultimately, safety is paramount and an experienced riding safari consultant will advise the safari best suited to your ability. Ant’s Nest in South Africa, for example, is perfect for complete beginners and at Royal Tree Lodge in Botswana, there is an enclosed park of over a thousand acres which provides a safe predator-free environment for the less experienced. Whereas galloping across the Masai Mara with Offbeat Safaris is not for the faint-hearted.

Full pelt with Offbeat Safaris, Kenya

At the other end of the scale, others may be unnecessarily modest or cautious when completing a form but would ultimately become bored riding a very quiet horse. These people are likely to be spotted at the very beginning and changed onto something more suitable. Subtle signs need to be read by the guide to ensure that the best matches are made. One experienced safari operator looks at the size of women’s hands as an unspoken indicator of their experience, working on the theory that their hands are larger than average from years of being around horses.

In the end it is not, of course, an exact science, but an expert will be able to help you to find the best operators and terrain to meet your expectations together with guidance on relaying an accurate picture of your ability.

Bush Pilots

Okavango Delta from the air, April 2015

Transfer flights in Southern Africa

There is a joke: ‘Mum, when I grow up I want to be a pilot.’ ‘Wait a minute son, you'll have to decide which you want as you definitely can't do both.’ There may be a little truth to this, seeing the young bucks who fly between bush camps, but don't let it put you off.

Why fly? Well, although many main roads are good in Southern Africa, even allowing for road side cattle, donkeys and game, the distances are vast. Away from main routes, roads tend to be bumpy sandy tracks; fun for a game drive but not a four hour transfer. So small aeroplanes are the best mode of transport for travellers visiting a number of camps during one safari. It starts with a flight on a scheduled airline into one of the main airports; from there, transfers could not be easier.

Check in at Selinda airstrip, April 2015

Maun in Botswana, effectively gateway to the Okavango Delta, is typical. It is ranked as the second busiest airport in the whole of Southern Africa; the figures however are not based on the number of passengers, but on the number of flights. Here, in addition to the occasional international flight, the tarmac is crowded with small aeroplanes equipped to carry from two to twelve passengers, which fly the length and breadth of the local area, criss-crossing the Delta and hopping between sandy landing strips. It is more like taking a taxi than catching a conventional flight, however. There is no checking in or waiting; no security or baggage collection. Oh, and the views are spectacular.

Transfers usually take place in the late morning after game drives, and airlines operate a day to day schedule accommodating the needs of visitors. The airstrips become a meeting point for guides who exchange news and goods. Sometimes, pilots, passengers and guides chat at leisure while guests assemble; but frequently there is a ‘hot stop’ and the engine keeps running while passengers and supplies are quickly manoeuvred on and off.

Pilots can also bring guests in the late afternoon, depending on itineraries, and stay at camps overnight, ready for the next day. In many of the smaller camps they will join an activity and supper; in others there is pilot accommodation. They can spend several days at a time in the bush, travelling between camps and it is rather reassuring for the nervous traveller to see the pilot joining guests for breakfast, making it virtually impossible to miss the flight.

The pilot who came for dinner...with guides and Boo at Motswiri, April 2015

These short flights are an excellent way of building up flying hours for young pilots. But do not be concerned by their average age. In hospitals, they always say that routine operations are better performed by registrars rather than consultants because they carry out those procedures every day. The same is true of flying small aeroplanes between landing strips: it is the bread and butter of the young bush pilots and they are experts in their craft.

To book flights in Africa, for peace of mind, use an experienced agent in the area who can advise on the best airlines, routes and transfers. Charter or scheduled flights are both options. And if you are very lucky, you can sit next to pilot.

To find out more about flying and safaris, see www.bushbucksafaris.com

How green is Botswana?

Late rains and eco-tourism 

Zebra in the Kalahari, April 2015

After a particularly dry start to the year, unusually heavy late rains at Easter have transformed Botswana into a verdant paradise. With plentiful water and good grazing across a vast area, game has dispersed widely, making it sometimes hard to see. But the overwhelming sense of contentment and plenty, with species grazing alongside each other in sunlit glades, makes it an uplifting experience. For the time being, even the Kalahari is green; grazed by zebra and wildebeest as far as the eye can see. 

Giraffe at Selinda Explorer Camp, April 2015

Botswana's greenness is, however, not limited to the vagaries of unpredictable weather patterns. In this country, greenness goes much deeper. Traditionally Botswana was sustained by beef, diamonds and hunting but for many years and particularly since the total ban on killing game for sport, eco-tourism has replaced hunting as a major source of income. 

As a country, Botswana has an area roughly the size of France and a population of only 2.1 million people. So exclusivity is the key to its low volume / high value tourism model. Essentially, the government owns the land, granting concession areas to private companies on fifteen year leases.  

Motswiri Camp, April 2015

Yet, the Botswana authorities retain a degree of control, monitoring the environmental impact of camps and operations, advising on changes of sites if existing sites have adversely impacted the area in which they operate. Those who hold leases for the concessions are willing partners in the drive to sustainable eco-tourism because it is Botswana’s stability and green credentials that help to make it such a desirable tourist destination.   
In line with this green approach, the generators that power camps are increasingly being replaced with renewable energy sources, with many lodges and camps now having solar installations on site as well as small scale solar farms for additional power. Solar lights and electricity produced by food waste are being explored and hybrid electric vehicles may be seen in some areas in the near future. 

DamaTau Camp, Linyanti Reserve

In keeping with the high value tourist market, visitors’ comfort is in no way compromised and camps and lodges remain top of the range with safety and creature comforts in abundance. For many, however, the green experience is additionally enhanced by lack of phone reception or internet availability, making reading and talking round the bar or camp fire accompanied by the sounds of nature the norm. 

As the season advances, the lush greenness of April and May will give way to vast parched areas of tinder dry vegetation, concentrating game increasingly to areas with access to water. But while the background colour changes, Botswana’s tourist industry will remain resolutely green. 

For more details about planning a trip with Bushbuck Safaris see www.bushbucksafaris.com

Okovango Delta, April 2015